VET VISIT

Always first on your list should be to set up an appointment for your Vet to examine the puppy.  I recommend having the puppy seen within the first 48 hours just to make sure your Vet agrees with the health assessment done by my Vet.  If you don’t have a Vet, ask friends and neighbors to recommend one.  Just as you should want the best care for your family, you should want a Vet who is both knowledgeable and compassionate for your new member.  A Vet should be willing to answer questions you may have as well as one who will respond immediately when you have a sick dog is important.

You may want to discuss vaccines with your Vet prior to the puppy’s arrival so you don’t need to make any last minute decisions on when to vaccinate.  I will provide you with all of the pups health records.

FOOD

I now feed Bil-Jac.  Since the on going fears of contamination of our pets food I switched.  Bil-Jac is the only dog food company in the US that can actually guarantee where their ingredients come from no other company can!  www.bil-jac.com Read about how Bil-Jac actually is made and how they really do differ from other pet foods.  Or pick up the phone and talk with them, they are truly a caring company!  Once I learned about the difference in the Bil-Jac process I knew this was my only option to protect my GOLDENS.  I've done allot of research over the years so just ask and I'll tell you what I've learned. Since coming home presents many new and stressful experiences for your puppy, it is best to keep him on this food, at least for a few days.  If you plan to change brands or the type of food, mix the “old” and new foods half and half for at least several days.  Many of us feed adult food or a mixture of half puppy and half adult food due to the rapid growth of our breed.  Take the time to do a bit of research.  Choose a food that provides the appropriate nutrients.  Quality is important to ensure optimum health.  While food amounts will need to increase as the puppy grows, it is important that you do not over feed your pup.  Being overweight can produce undue stress on the pup’s forming joints.  You should be able to clearly feel the pup’s ribs.

Another product your puppy will be on is Total-Zymes and Total-Biotics.  You can read more about it at www.targetpetprobiotics.com then feel free to ask me any questions you might have. This will help with the overall stress your puppy will endure on his adventure to his new home.  I highly recommend purchasing a container of each which will last you for 363 cups of food.  Please allow your puppy the best nutrition possible during his first 6 months.

FOOD AND WATER BOWLS

Again, be prepared ahead of time.  Personal preference comes into play on the choice of bowls. Some feel that molded plastic has a negative impact on pigment of the nose.  Plastic can also absorb odors and easily stain and can cause acne on their chin.  Ceramic bowls are heavy and prevent tipping, but can be cumbersome or break easily when bumped or dropped.  Stainless steel bowls are available in both weighted and lightweight styles.  Both clean easily.  Lightweight ones can cause a racket when sliding across a kitchen floor.  They also move easily as the dog eats.

I prefer to use smaller bowls for my pups.  It just seems easier for them to eat.  And, a smaller water bowl prevents “swimming” in the bowl and resulting messes.  As I increase the amount of food given at a meal, I will then switch to an adult sized bowl.

COLLAR AND LEASH

Decide on the collar and lead you plan to use for your pup and take it with you when you pick up your puppy.  Some of you may pick up your pups from an airport or have a drive of more than an hour to your home.  A collar and lead will provide safety if you need to exercise your puppy on the trip to his new home.

Many of us like to use a one piece, fabric, “slip-type” lead these leads are convenient because they are one piece.  The fabric also prevents clumping and/or breakage of the coat around the neck area.  If you prefer a separate collar and leash, then I recommend leather.  It’s easy on your hands and very natural to your pup.

TOYS

Your pup needs appropriate toys to provide stimulation and a release of energy.  Be sure the toys you choose are age appropriate and safe for your puppy.  Avoid stuffed animals with eyes and noses made of hard glass beads, etc.  If in doubt, consult a local pet store. 

Toys can be useful in teaching some pups to occupy themselves, but remember too that playing with your pup helps promote a bond between you and your puppy.  Playing with the pup also helps you become the “Alpha dog” and set limits...  You need to be in control of all games and decide when the game is to end.  (More on this topic in a follow up article.)

Puppies do not need a roomful of toys at one time.  They will choose to play with only one or two favorites and tend to ignore and/or become bored if too many toys are provided.  Rather, place just 2-3 toys on the floor at one time.  Then, after a day or two, you can put some toys up for a later time and present “new” stimulating toys for the pup. 

CHEW TOYS

As precious as your new pup can be, those sharp little teeth can hurt!  Puppies use their mouths to explore their new environment.  Even though most pups will not start to lose their puppy teeth until approximately four months of age, often the gums can be swollen and sore.  Chew toys can satisfy the chewing instinct and relieve gum discomfort.  They can also provide a reprieve and some quiet time for you.

Again, your local pet store can help you select appropriate chew toys.  Remember to choose only those made in the United States. (Some foreign countries use arsenic in rawhides, etc)  You will also need to use some common sense in providing chew toys.  Some pups handle rawhides, pig ears, etc. very well; others may exhibit some stomach symptoms (particularly diarrhea) if given too many chew toys.

To stimulate interest in chew toys, I like to vary the type and “flavor” of chew objects.  Again, I provide these at specific times rather than leaving them on the floor for constant access.  I have found that my pups are more eager to spend time with appropriate chew toys when they are presented only 2-3 times a day. 

CRATE TRAINING

I firmly believe a crate can provide safety and well-being for a puppy.  A crate also helps instill good habits in your dog’s behavior.  Crates can be helpful in housetraining (more on this in another article) as a dog will not usually soil an area in which he must sleep and live.  A crate provides safety from the garbage, household cleaners and electrical cords.  Chewing of the sofa, carpets, tables, etc can be prevented by using a crate when you are away from home.  A crate is a safe means of transporting your pup in your car or van.  It is a safe retreat for your pup, a place where he can go when tired or to retreat from visitors or young children in the home.  And, since most veterinarians and boarding facilities make extensive use of crates, it’s a kindness to your pup and the people caring for him to prepare him for these times.

  A crate should be large enough for the adult dog to turn around and lie down.  If not familiar with crates, consult me for type and brand selections appropriate for your golden. Until the pup reaches adult size, a portion of the crate can be blocked off to prevent the pup from soiling one area and moving to another to sleep.

  A dog CAN learn to accept a crate.  Getting your pup accustomed to the crate should be a slow and pleasant process.  NEVER use the crate as punishment. (This can cause resentment) NEVER leave the dog unattended in the crate with any type of collar on his neck! (If the collar catches on anything in the crate while you are absent, the consequences can be fatal!)  I also do NOT leave rawhides or chews in the crate as the pup could possibly choke on a piece of rawhide or one or swallow/choke on bits of toy that have been shredded or chewed.

  A couple of suggestions for initial crate training include:

…..Place a treat in the crate as the pup watches.  Leave the door open and see if the pup will go in on his own.  If he does, mildly praise him.  Later, when you put the pup in his crate for a period of time, give him a treat.

  ….Bring the crate into a family room, bedroom, etc.  Allow the pup to investigate the crate and still be with the family.  The crate then isn’t perceived as a means of isolating the pup from the family.

  …Use a specific command such as “Kennel” or “Crate”, “Bed”, or “in” when you want the pup to go into the crate.  Tell him once in a pleasant but firm voice.  It may be helpful to use a treat.  If the pup obeys, praise quietly.  If the pup does not obey the first command, go get him, and pleasantly but firmly repeat the command as you place him in the crate.  DO NOT scold or the pup will associate the scolding with the crate and you will defeat your purpose.  (Be sure to potty your pup before putting him in the crate for any period of time)